A finite and experimental newsletter about spending a few months in Japan.
It's just the first hours of our 3-month trip in Japan and I get the uncontrollable urge to explore non-stop. My wife and I barely leave our bags in the tiny and tidy apartment, and head back out to Tokyo.
We pop up by the Imperial Palace park, surrounded by a fast-paced avenue, filled with people and cars. But it's all so strangely quiet. I was expecting tranquility in the confines of a Zen garden, not on a main avenue on a weekday morning. How did they mute their cars?
Life is an endless string of comparisons and I think of the loud Mexico City, where we were only a few hours (or days?) ago. I’d already be bombarded with street vendors, their sounds and lots of honking, leaving almost no space for my own thoughts.
It’s got its own kind of beauty, but I could get used to this real-life silent movie.
We walk for days on the vast and open roads until they change for narrow and sidewalk-less streets.
We’re in Kanda as we step down into an underground café.
Everyone smokes and whispers. The wooden menu is mundane art in itself. The cheesecake tastes like greek yoghurt, with deep and nuanced flavors. The drip coffee is strong but does nothing against the weight of the jet lag.
After a 3 hour nap that was supposed to last 30 min, we take a train to Shimokitazawa, the hipster, trendy neighborhood.
Is it the same day? I'm not sure anymore.
We go Upstairs. A bar that's literally 6 seats in what feels like someone's messy apartment. The owner, framed by a vast vinyl collection, offers us an ashtray. We politely decline and the only other customer down the bar looks at us and says "Sorry", as he takes a drag from his cigarette. This whole smoking indoors situation feels so out of character with Japanese palpable care of health and hygiene1.
"Drink?", the owner asks me. There's a bottle in front of me with a tape that says "coffee shochu". I point at it, and he pours me some on the rocks.
Besides an avid music collector, the owner is also a big movie fan. He spends his days watching 2-3 movies at the theater, and then opens his bar/music cave. The smoking guy owns a record store nearby and is an old friend. We get to know each other through cultural misconceptions, their relationship with the Chinese and why drinking sake by itself is weird.
Meanwhile, the owner quietly starts playing a vinyl of Mexican norteñas, followed by some cumbias. I'm not sure how this makes me feel but I get his showing of love through music.
The conversation inevitably takes us to food. They mention there's a Mexican restaurant around called Tepito. My wife and I look at each other and laugh. I explain to them what Tepito is: the most dangerous neighborhood in Mexico City. You can buy a machine gun or a kidney there. Synonymous with crime, scams and corruption.
They laugh and I ask them what would be the equivalent in Tokyo.
I'm already getting used to not have to wear my wallet in the front pocket or change sidewalks at the least suspicion of someone dubious coming, but I'm still amazed when they can't come up with a name.
"Maaaybe in Osaka, or Kobe, but not here". What does a country have to do to have such low crime rate and almost no dangerous areas?
Our soundtrack is now Drive My Car's soundtrack, which the owner has autographed by the musician itself, who he proudly refers to as a friend. The dreamy and repetitive sounds are soothing… this is more down my alley.
We leave a little past 3am in an expensive Uber since trains are already closed.
It’s alright, we've made our first Japanese friends.
We wake up on top of the Mori Tower and see Tokyo from above.
We almost miss the beautiful Mt. Fuji.
We continue exploring our last missing stops of the circular Yamanote line.
On the way back to our new "home", this guy decides to take a nap on my shoulder.
After 5 days that feel more like 120 continuous hours we get to our stop.
For every lack of sound from a Japanese mouth there's one coming out from the speakers in the train stations. Every time you step off a train car you're greeted by video game sounds.
It feels like you accomplished something, like you leveled up.
Maybe we did. We got a small but real taste of this complex and fascinating culture, and it has only left me wanting more.
Rapid-fire observations:
Food has lived up to the hype, with two stand-outs:
Taiyaki, a fish-shaped pastry filled with paste (I get a sweet potato one every time I see it),
Hiroshimayaki, which is, well, everything:
Japanese bathrooms also live up to the hype. I don't want to go back to a world where my buttocks are not automatically heated when I sit
If you hear voices on the train, you can be 95% sure it’s a foreigner
Everyone wears masks here, even outside
First experience with an eSim, and it works perfectly (even better than a local, physical one)
It’s so pleasant how here everything works, everything is orderly, everything is respectful. Lots of bows, sumimasen, arigato gosaimasu. No jaywalking, ever. No one eats in the train, or outside. They deeply apologize if something’s out of stock, even if it’s some random brand of eggs:
Some books, filmmakers and articles on Japan I've found delightful:
Yasujiro Ozu. One of the main reasons that I wanted to come here. Here’s a short video you can start with, or the movie in question, Late Spring
Wabi Sabi, by Nobuo Suzuki (I read a few things on the topic and this book has been the clearest and more integral one)
The Penguin Book of Japanese Short Stories, compiled by Jay Rubin (wide-ranging selection sorted by theme)
Kokoro, by Natsume Soseki (quintessential Japanese novel from the early 20th century)
Teach Us to Outgrow Our Madness, by Kenzaburo Oe (dense and gloomy but worth it)
Zen Flesh, Zen Bones (classic and amazing compilation of Zen teachings and koans)
Anything by Craig Mod
Japan and How I failed to Figure it Out, by Tim Urban (funny and light)
We later learned the Japan Tobacco company is still state-owned, which explains everything
OSCAR. I’m so excited for all these incoming Japan issues. Also, so happy you’re doing this!
You have a lot of beautiful detailed descriptions that I was rereading. I loved this:
“Everyone smokes and whispers. The wooden menu is mundane art in itself. The cheesecake tastes like greek yoghurt, with deep and nuanced flavors. The drip coffee is strong but does nothing against the weight of the jet lag.”
But also, I really want to be part of this duo: “Besides an avid music collector, the owner is also a big movie fan. He spends his days watching 2-3 movies at the theater, and then opens his bar/music cave. The smoking guy owns a record store nearby and is an old friend.”
2-3 movies a day????? Then opens his bar?? What a life. And a record store owning friend??? I’m jealous.
I’m dying at the guy taking a nap on your shoulder. Take it as a compliment that he thought your shoulder looked cozy???? 😂
I’m so obsessed with the video game sounds, I want more Japan soundscapes!
Loved this update of your travels, this brought me so much joy to read!!
Wow I loved this Oscar! I feel like I’m in the jet laggy excited exploring phase of Japan with you. The mixed media here is my favorite. I found the little noise sample so delightful! Also your experience at the bar and your new friends, just all so amazing!
“Meanwhile, the owner quietly starts playing a vinyl of Mexican norteñas, followed by some cumbias. I'm not sure how this makes me feel but I get his showing of love through music.” LOL if it makes you feel better, this happens to me ALL THE TIME with Bollywood music.